This morning we wind our way up through the beautiful old houses of Ghandruk and climb on an undulating trail to a tea house in the forest with an amazing view to the Annapurnas. From here we continue through the rhododendron forest, which just keeps on getting more and more stunning throughout the day.

We begin to hear the roar of waterfalls and then, for a time, we follow a stream which is literally hurtling down the hill we are climbing up. We cross a bridge and the real climbing starts with a very steep section up to the tea houses at Bhaisi Kharka, where we are quite likely to see Langur monkeys playing in the trees while we rest our legs and wait for lunch.

Continuing up after lunch and reach a stunning, undulating trail through magnificent rhododendron forest, with gigantic old growth trees keeping out the light and with orchids and mushrooms growing everywhere. After enjoying this stunning section of the trail for about half an hour we have a short, steep climb up into Tadapani.

Walking time: Approx. 4-5 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Gandruk Tea house © Mohan Duwal

Incredible rhododendron forest awaits you as you trek out of Tadapani this morning. As light filters through the ancient trees towering above you, you may feel as if you’re in a Tolkein novel or fairytale. You’ll tackle a short climb, then will descend into a dell, after which you’ll be on a more serious ascent all the way to Dobato.

Along the way, you’ll emerge on the northern side of the ridgeline, with a stunning view of the Annapurna South Massif and the roar of waterfalls and the racing river in the valley far below. Once the forest changes to oak trees and conifers, you’ll face a steep half hour up to the ridgeline teahouse at Meshar Danda. Enjoy a cup of tea, then head back out for an hour more of forested trail until you reach Isharu, a hillside village where shepherds graze their sheep, and where you’ll stop to have some lunch too.

Your afternoon starts with a gentle ascent as the trail contours around the hillside and then up to a small, beautiful pass; the path even goes through a fascinating Gurung temple. From here, it’s a short descent to a lovely open valley before you head into the trees again, then back up to the ridgeline. En route, enjoy incredible purple barked rhododendron trees — smaller and more striking than those you saw earlier. From the ridge, you’ll hike down to a creek bed; follow this to a small pass, from where you contour around to the lodges at Dobato.

For those with extra energy to spare, head up to Muldai Peak for sunset views. It takes about 45 minutes from the teahouse to reach the view tower and the view is stunning, one of the highlights of the trek!

Walking time: Approx. 6 hours (not including summiting Muldai for sunset)

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Isharu climb © Georgina Ayre

In the morning it is highly recommended to get up an hour before sunrise and walk up to the viewpoint at Muldai, certainly if you didn’t go for sunset. We will have a super early breakfast because from Muldai the trail continues down a very small steep trail to the south towards Ban Thanti, this trail is real Himalayan trekking, we are well away from the main trails, where the crowds have turned the trails into highways.

We trek down steeply for a couple of hours or so to Banthanti where we rejoin the main trail. The trail then steepens, as we climb through rhododendron forest to Deorali, a small pass, before dropping down to the lodges at Ghorepani. At this point, we are on the main Annapurna Circuit route and there are likely to be lots of travelers passing through this ridge-top settlement in both directions. Ghorepani literally means “horse water” and was a popular stopping place for the mule trains which plied the route from Pokhara to Jomsom and beyond. The impressive peak which can be seen across the broad valley of the Kali Gandaki to the northwest is Dhaulagiri.

Walking time: Approx. 6 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Viewing Mt. Dhaulagiri © Clare Mathiasen

Overlooking Ghorepani is Poon Hill [3193m], and an hour-long pre-dawn ascent gives us the opportunity to see the classic view of the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri at sunrise.

After breakfast, we begin the long descent to Birethanti through magnificent oak and rhododendron forests. From the village of Ulleri, a long steep stone staircase seems to go on forever before eventually reaching Hille. A more gradual descent then brings us to Birethanti, from where it is a short distance to the road and our transport for the short drive back to Pokhara.

Dinner tonight is your own choice, we can of course help with recommendations of some of our favourite restaurants.

Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours
Driving time: 2 hours (to Pokhara)

Accommodation: None
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch

Poon Hill View © Suman Thapa