Today we’ll hire a local jeep from Sotikhola to Machha Khola, stopping at a checkpoint along the way. This is a dusty road that is under construction. We start trekking from Machha Khola, as the jeep cannot drive any farther. For the first 2 hours, we’ll have to walk along the dusty road. But, once we get to Tatopani, we cross a suspension bridge at Budi Gandaki and then follow the natural trekking trail along the rambling river up to Dobhan, finally getting into the rhythm of the trek.

Walking time: Approx. 4-5 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trekking in the valley © Alex Treadway

After having our breakfast we will start our trek to the next destination. Above Dobhan, the Budhi Gandaki descends in an impressive series of steep rapids. Here, our trail climbs high above the river to descend through what appears to be a huge gateway into some secret place; in front the valley widens, the river calms, and we splash through streams before coming into Jagat, the entrance to the Manaslu Conservation Area. It is worth wandering around this beautiful, paved village, where proud villagers have recorded how much they contributed to these paving schemes.After descending a long series of stone steps to the river, we climb a terraced hill to Saguleri, from where we can see the impressive Sringi Himal, 7187m. We pass through the charming, paved village of Sirdibas, where the local children might be selling oranges. Crossing the river again via a long suspension bridge at GataKhola, the path splits, with the right-hand branch heading off towards the Ganesh Himal.

Our route continues upstream, and again we have a steep climb to reach Philim and its Japanese sponsored school. It’s a shorter day today, only about three hours, so we have the afternoon free to explore the interesting upper village, or sit and enjoy the afternoon at our tea house.

Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Local herder in Jagat taking his flock out to graze

At the start of our four to five hour day, we pass through Eklai Bhatti (means Lone Tea House), and then on through a narrow, dramatic gorge section with towering walls, and past a thundering waterfall just above us on the right of the trail. We cross the river three more times in the next two hours (often small, badly maintained bridges, Nepali style) to avoid the difficult valley sides; the first bridge, a new one, is at the intersection to Tsum valley, a remote valley leading to Tibet. After trekking through dense woods for over an hour, we pass the cold campsite of Pewa on the river, and after another hour we leave the gorge and climb briefly to the small village of Deng.

This is the start of the lower Nubri region called Kutang, where the people are ethnically Tibetan but speak a different dialect than the people of upper Nubri where the people are pure Tibetans. The Kutang dialect, called ‘kukay’, is a mix of Tibeto-Burman and Gurung. We have views of Lumbo Himal to the rear, as well as Lapuchen and Dwijen Himals.

Walking time: Approx. 5-6 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

On the trail to Deng © Alex Treadway

Today is a wonderful trekking day; after passing through the seemingly deserted seasonal village of Nambachhe, planted with fields of barley and lined with mani walls, we ascend through a dense, cool forest for an half an hour, crossing the Budhi Gandaki once on a wooden bridge, to Namrung, at 2540 meters our stop for the night. As we gain altitude, we reach alpine territory and are treated to increasingly amazing mountain views. Namrung village is the start of Nubri, the region of purely Tibetan inhabitants speaking a dialect of western Tibet. Above this village the valley opens out and there are extensive pastures.

Walking time: Approx. 5-6 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

On the trail to Bihi © Marj Beaumont

After having our breakfast, we start our trek toward the village of Lihi at 2840 meters, a substantial altitude gain. We are climbing quite gently now and we cross a large stream flowing down from the Lidanda Glaciers, and reach the picturesque Tibetan village of Sho at 3000m. From Sho, the views of Ngadi Chuli are spectacular, and further on, towards Lho, we are finally treated to views of Manaslu itself; quite an impressive afternoon. Lho is a lively village adorned with many prayer flags in the yard of a small lodge. Sunset and sunrise from the this spot are wonderful, and the small gompa just below is well worth a visit , where we stop for lunch, with views across the river to the ruins of an old Tibetan fort. Walking through the upper reaches of Lho, with the snowy peaks of Manaslu ahead of us in the distance, we pass the new gompa and then ascend through light forests next to a small river to reach the Tibetan settlement of Shyla, where the villagers are often out in the fields.

Walking time: Approx. 5-6 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Manaslu view from Shyala © Mark Beaumont

Today we have an option of either staying at Shyala exploring local area, described below, or continue trekking towards Sama Gaon. Depending on what you would like to do, after breakfast you can explore the village and gompas, which is like a little piece of old Tibet! We will hike up to Pung Gyen Gompa, at 3870 metres, a stunning walk up an often icy and slippery trail along the Numla Khola and the Pung Gyen glacier, past Tibetan ‘kharkas’, or seasonal herding settlements, with unbeatable views of Manaslu near the gompa. The gompa was mostly destroyed by an avalanche in 1953, and recently rebuilt. The complex includes a cave gompa as well, which affords even better views of the valley. We will then continue our trek up to Sama Gaon or Ro, as the locals call it. Sama Gaon sits in a bowl at the foot of the pastures leading to the high peaks, with mani walls, a small gompa and tightly packed rows of houses at the lower reaches of village, and the large gompa at the upper reaches. The people settled here from Tibet over 500 years ago, and the two gompas date from this time, both having unique architecture and built of wood. The Tibetan villages here have entrance gates which are very distinctive compared with the Tibetan ones, and they maintain an active trade with Tibet (notice the Chinese brandy and beer on sale). If the weather is good, you will see the village women weaving wool (baal) from Tibet into gowns – which are then traded back to Tibet. Taxes were actually paid to the Dzongka Dzong (fortress) at the border of Tibet, a few days walk from SamaGaon, as late as the 1940’s until it was taken over by the Ghorkas in the late 19th century. Later, after 1959, the region was home to Tibetan guerillas, and thus closed to trekking until 1992.

Walking time: Approx. 1.5 – 2.5 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Samagaon Kani (entrance) © Alex Treadway

Another day of incredible mountain views during the walk up to Samdo, an easy three hours away. En route we pass the long mani walls at Kermo Kharka, after which we spot the entrance chorten of Samdo high on a bluff. We descend back to the Bhudi Gandaki and cross a small bridge before another short climb to the ‘kane’ entrance of Samdo; look back down the valley for great views.

The villagers of Samdo came across the border from the village of Riu after 1959 and built their new village here, at their old herding settlement (see below). We can get out and take a walk around the village, where the inhabitants live an essentially Tibetan lifestyle, herding their yaks, sheep and goats, training their horses and planting barley. There is a small home gompa in a house mid-village and several reincarnated lamas living in Samdo.

Walking time: Approx. 3-4 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

On our rest day here why not a day trip to the border of Tibet; no passport required. It takes five hours walking to the Gya La (‘large pass’) where you can take in the views and ponder the border markers at the top: ‘China, 1962.’ We will probably share the trail with groups of Samdo residents, carrying timbers over the border to Tibet.

Like the people of Ro, the Samdo inhabitants are Tibetan and were ceded the land by the king of Jumla over 500 years ago; but, unlike the Ro people, they only claimed their land after the Chinese takeover in the early 1950s.

Since then they have established a trade with China and India, marketing among other things, the aphrodisiac root that grows in the region. If we’re lucky we can visit and see inside some of the local houses for chang (Tibetan barley beer), salt butter tea and perhaps a few carpets to buy!

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Lakya La from Samdo Ri © Chhepal Sherpa

We leave on the trade route to Tibet and climb through the ruins of Larkya bazaar, one of the trade markets that flourished years back. After two hours of climbing past glaciers, with increasingly awe-inspiring panoramas, we come to Dharamsala, where we have lunch and gaze out at the views.

You may really feel the altitude and will certainly the cold here, so enjoy a more leisurely afternoon and keep warm. We’ll have an early dinner in preparation for our pass crossing tomorrow…

Walking time: Approx. 4-5 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trekkers between Samdo and Daramsala © Alex Treadway

After a short climb, we reach the ablation valley on the North side of the Larkya Glaciers where we have views of Cho Danda and then of Larkya Peak. We continue across the moraines of the glacier, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only in the last section to the pass, which should take us about three hours to crest.

From the pass, there are outstanding views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kangguru and the huge Annapurna II. If there is fresh snow, we may see Snow Leopard prints from the evening before; it’s also blue sheep (Bharal) and Tibetan Snow Cock territory.

The views from the top of the pass are truly unbelievable. After hanging our Tibetan prayer flags, and yelling ‘Ki ki so so lha gyalo’ (may the Gods be victorious), get ready for a steep, ankle straining drop to a trail following the glacial moraine, very slippery if covered in snow so have your ‘Yak tracks’ ready if you’ve brought them, and definitely use trekking poles.

It is a longer day than usual to Bimtang, but to walk into these low pastures with the evening mist coming in and amazing views of Manaslu; it’s an experience not to be missed.

Walking time: Approx. 7-8 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Lakya La pass © Alex Treadway

Bimtang is very chilly in the morning, so getting up for a cup of warming tea is a good idea! To get warm, we move down valley into the sun, through forested hillsides, at the end of our lost world. Here the inhabitants are a mix of Manangis (of Tibetan descent) and Chettris (Hindus), so they eat a mix of dal bhaat, buckwheat dhido, tsampa and Tibetan tea. Today we set a goal of reaching Goa following the downhills through the lush forests full of flora and fauna including rhododendron bushes. There’s an option to stop for lunch at Yak Kharka, or we can push on for Goa. Soon the trail drops to Gurung Goa where you can see the peaceful Gurung village where you’ll be staying for the night.

Walking time: Approx. 4-5 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Hampuk bridge © Suman Thapa

Today is the final day you’ll be walking to the Manaslu trail. The gorge ahead marks the land of apple pie, cold beers, and hot showers – the Annapurna Circuit trail and almost the end of our trail. On reaching Dharapani we’ll have some lunch and load up the jeep for the drive down to our overnight destination, Besisahar.

Walking time: Approx. 2 hours
Driving time: Approx. 5 hours

Accommodation: Gateway Himalaya Resort
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Last bridge Dharapani © Mark Beaumont

In the morning we say our goodbyes to the crew, load up the jeep and start the drive back to Kathmandu.

We hope you have had an incredible trek and we will be looking forward to trekking with you in the Himalayas again!

Driving time: Approx. 5 hours

Accommodation: None
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch

Girl in Jagat © Mark Beaumont