With Lamjung Himal [6893m] sparkling in the morning sun, we set off for Pisang. The mountain disappears as we climb the path up the valley, passing a huge apple orchard. We continue through a fir and pine forest, climbing to a high, rocky area as the opposite bank becomes an impassable cliff.

From this point, the valley becomes extremely steep-sided as we follow the path to Bratang. In the past, this was the military station for troops who fought against the Khampa tribal revolution, but the dilapidated buildings are all that remains of that era. A short climb from the village brings us to a rock-strewn area where we cross a wooden bridge and follow a high, winding path, before crossing back to the right bank again.

We now walk through a pine forest and as the forest ends, the valley changes from a V-shape to a gentle U-shape, opening up a wonderful vista before us. We can see the east peak of Annapurna II as well as Pisang Peak to the northeast. Continuing on, we come to a long mani wall by a bridge and the lower village of Pisang.

Walking time: Approx. 5-6 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Annapurna II from Chame © Mads Mathiasen

Beyond Pisang, the trail climbs a steep ridge which affords good views of the Manang valley and Tilicho peak. Descending past Manang’s airstrip at Hongde, we come to a level area from where the northeast face of Annapurna III rises majestically above us. From the wide plains of the Sabje Khola Valley, Annapurna IV [7525m] also becomes visible. Just beyond this point, we cross the considerably reduced flow of the Marsyangdi Khola via a wooden bridge to the tiny village of Mungji. Cultivated fields appear on both sides of the path and off to the right, below a craggy mountain, we can see the village of Bryaga with its splendid monastery. Large chortens and mani walls abound and the tall peaks of the Himalaya spread out before us – Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Gangapurna [7455m] and, to the rear, Tilicho Peak [7134m]. After a short steep climb, we reach Manang which is a surprisingly large village for this remote mountain region.

Walking time: Approx 5 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

In the Manang Valley © Evan Galbraith

An important rest and acclimatisation day today before crossing the Thorung La. There are optional day walks such as crossing the river to see the tremendous ice-fall coming down from the Annapurnas, or climbing high above the village for a full panorama of the Annapurna range and the Manang Valley. There is also a Himalayan Rescue Association [HRA] aid post in the village which makes an interesting and educational visit.

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Annapurna III © Mark Beaumont

After acclimatising at Manang we continue our on the trail bound for the stunning Tilicho Lake. From Manang, we head out through the western gates and then follow the path down to the river. After crossing the Khangsar Khola on the bridge below Khangsar we ascend the slope to the village, a village still in the old Tibetan style and which is also known as the ‘last village of Nepal’.

Walking time: Approx. 3-4 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Happy trekkers © Mark Beaumont

This morning we continue on from Khangsar on a large, recently built path past a Gompa (monastery) and on up towards a high ridge. We reach an intersection of the new trail and the old trail – and we take the new trail and climb to a high crest before descending on switchbacks carved out through the scree slopes. We reach a side valley and, crossing the little stream at the bottom, we come to a building known as Tilicho Base Camp.

Walking time: Approx. 5-6 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

The trail to Tilicho BC© Evan Galbraith

We get an early start this morning as we have a great but long day hike ahead of us. It is about 3-4 hours to the Tilicho Lake, a stunning body of bright turquoise water, claimed to be the highest lake in the world. We are hiking through the high alpine landscape, with plenty of bare rock and snow and it is so incredible to come upon the vibrant color of the lake in this less than colorful landscape! How long we spend at the lake is determined by how long it took us to walk there and our energy levels; we don’t want to leave it too late to return to Base Camp.

Walking time: Approx. 7 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Tilicho Lake © Evan Galbraith

Returning from Base camp you can keep high and follow a track 400 meters or so above Khangsar village passing through the ruins of old Khangsar and follow an unmarked trail which will lead you around and down to cross the river on an old log bridge between Gumsang and Yak Kharka.

Walking time: Approx. 4 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Tilicho Peak view © Mark Beaumont

Leaving Yak Kharka, we climb gradually to a ridge before descending to the headwaters of the Marsyangdi and crossing via a covered wooden bridge. After a short ascent up the mountain path on the right bank, we follow a narrow trail across an unstable scree slope and then descend to Thorung Phedi and a free afternoon to either hike up to the lodge at High Camp for some acclimatization, or an afternoon of reading and chatting with other trekkers in the sunny, all-glass dining area of the lodge.

Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Tea Houses Thorung Phedi © Evan Galbraith

Up early for the four-hour walk to the top of the Thorung La at 5400m, where we are treated with spectacular views over Mustang and the surrounding peaks. The descent is almost as demanding as the ascent to the top of the pass, so a cup of chai and a snack at the local tea house at Chabarbu, at the bottom of the descent, is a required stop. And on to the lower Mustang, which we have actually reached just after the pass, and the serene temple complex of Muktinath.

Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame, and the pagoda-style Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire, and water. We bed down for the night, finally, at the Royal Mustang Lodge, with a great dining area and hot showers.

Walking time: Approx. 9-10 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Thorung La (pass) © Evan Galbraith

Today you will trek down to Jomsom via Lupra village (2790) where there is a Bonpo Monastery. While we have to go up the mountain again for away in order to reach the trail, it is a great route that trekkers on the Annapurna circuit don’t normally use, so we will be far away from any crowds and the jeep trail to Jharkot and Muktinath.

Bonpo is an ancient pre-Buddhist religion not represented by many monasteries these days, so it is a rare and special chance to learn about this ancient animist religion while taking a stunning alternate route back to Jomsom. We reach Jomsom by mid-afternoon with plenty of time to have a shower and relax before we celebrate the end of our trek in style in the evening.

Walking time: Approx. 6 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Lupra trail sign © Dan Barham

Bid farewell to the Mustang as you head back to the greenery of the middle hills. You’ll have an early start to prepare for your spectacular 30-minute flight to Pokhara. After you land, spend the day however you like: there are myriad water activities (boating, kayaking, paddle-boating), yoga studios, and funky shops. Try paragliding if you’re feeling fearless or relax with a cocktail during happy hour at a café overlooking Phewa Lake.

Accommodation: None
Meals included: Breakfast

We fly back to Pokhara © Sterling Lorence