This morning we have a 45 min flight to a small mountain airstrip built on a little plateau above Juphal village at 2490m, the starting point for our trek to Phoksundo Lake. Juphal and the villages we walk through today are inhabited by a mix of Hindu and Buddhist inhabitants. We will see signs of how these faiths are intermingled with ancient animist and shamanistic elements, a great introduction to the middle hills culture of Nepal.

The trail ascends southeast, high above Thulo Bheri (river) Valley, then winds through maize fields to the village of Kalagaunda. We will follow the southern bank of the Bheri River and pass Rupghat, where the Suli Gad, the river we will walk along to Phoksundo, comes in from the north and joins the Thulo Bheri river. From here it is a short walk to reach Dunai at 2095m, which has for centuries been a major trading hub deep in the middle hills of western Nepal. It is still a very lively place!

Flight time: 45 minutes

Walking Time: Approx. 4–5 hours

Accommodation: Local Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Village houses near Dunai © Mads Mathiasen

This morning we descend through the streets of Dunai and cross the bridge over the Bheri River. We follow the northern bank of the river to Sulighat before heading north to the Shey Phoksundo National Park check-post. The rock-strewn trail climbs above the serpentine Suli Gad River through a series of hemp trees to Kageni and then through a tropical walnut and maple forest, where we will begin to see glimpses of Tibetan culture.

We will meet our first mule caravans today, announced by the sound of the bells around their necks. Please remember to stick to the inside of the trail while passing mules to avoid being knocked off the trail! After Kageni we cross to the western side of the river and climb up over a little knoll before descending through a winter settlement. Savouring the views of fluttering prayer flags, cascading waterfalls and lush vegetation, we continue to Shyanta village located at 2495m. Another hour-and-a-half walk uphill along the narrow trail brings us to the village of Chhepka at 2665m.

Walking Time: Approx. 6–7 hours

Accommodation: Local Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Rest stop at Shyngta © Mads Mathiasen

Today we have another wonderful day of trekking through steep, dramatic gorges, and stunning forest of spruce, white pine, cedar, fir, cypress, birch and larches. We cross the Suligad numerous times, sometimes on old-school bridges, before reaching Rechi, a Hindu village which sees few trekkers. While a Hindu village, Rechi has strong links to the neighbouring Bon villages of Pungmo, Ringmo and Rike.

From Rechi, we have another hour of hilly trekking to reach a bridge leading west at the confluence of the Pungmo Chu and the Suligad. We cross the river and ascend the Pungmo river valley for another couple of hours until the entry chortens of Pungmo herald our arrival to this stunning village.

We will spend two nights in homestays here, giving us a unique chance to interact with local folk and learn much more about their way of living and the fascinating way they govern their local area.

Walking Time: Approx. 6–7 hours

Accommodation: Local Tea House / Homestay
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trekker in Rechi Village © Mads Mathiasen

Today you have options to head out for a long or short day walk, or to stay in the village and explore. We highly recommend making it a big day up to the high alpine zone with stunning lakes and mountains. For that we get up early and head west on the trail to the Kagmara pass. For most of the morning we have stunning views of Kang Chauni peak, 6444m. After a couple of hours we take a side trail and start climbing steeply following the Phuphu Khola and, as we climb higher, we begin to get a good view of Kanjoroba Himal. We reach a summer settlement from where we can really begin to get a sense of the stunning setting we are heading into further up,  with mountains on all sides. After another couple of hours we reach the first lake Cho Nakpo at 4130m. For most this is the perfect place to enjoy our packed lunch before returning to Pungmo but for those with extra energy and time in the day, there are a further four lakes up the valley.

If we are up here just before the monsoon, we will get to meet lots of Yartsagumpa collectors who have come up for the season to try their luck at finding the strange but lucrative Yartsagumba. This is formed when a fungus parasitises a caterpillar larvae  and then produces a fruiting body. It is reputed to have strong medicinal qualities and is highly prized in Chinese and Asian markets, commanding prices greater than gold.

Returning, we take a higher route from the summer settlement and enjoy stunning views down the valley towards Pungmo before descending back into the valley. We follow the same trail we took this morning, returning to our homestay in time for dinner.

For those wanting a shorter but still quite challenging hike today, a visit to the remote Thegchen Rabgyling Gompa (monastery) is a great option. The return hike is around 5 km, with a fair bit of climbing.

Walking Time: Approx. 8–10 hours

Accommodation: Local Tea House / Homestay
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Kang Chauni 6444m © Mads Mathiasen

This morning after breakfast we bid Pungmo and our hosts farewell and descend back down the trail to the confluence of the Pungmo Khola and the Suligad. Going north, the river is now known as the Phoksundo Khola. We will pass the fantastic Tapriza school, which is making such an impact on ensuring children can be educated in their local language and therefore maintaining their cultural identity.

From here our trail to Phoksundo Lake follows the west bank of the river, while the trail on the east of the Phoksundo River veers eastwards and leads to Dho Tarap. Hence the name for this area Sum (three) Duwa (trails). We climb through a cedar forest to a winter settlement used by the people of Ringmo village. Our trail then ascends through open country with great views back down the valley and up the valley towards Dho Tarap. As we continue we will have amazing views of the spectacular 170m Jharana Waterfall — one of the highest in Nepal.

We continue through birch forests to the upper reaches of the Phoksundo River, where we are greeted by the entrance chortens of Ringmo, 3650m, a picturesque Tibetan village of flat-roofed stone houses. We are rewarded with the stunning deep blue and sometimes turquoise and mirror-like waters of Lake Phoksundo – almost unearthly in its colour and serenity.

Walking Time: Approx. 5–6 hours

Accommodation: Local Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Chorten near Ringmo © Mads Mathiasen

We have a full day to explore the area around the magnificent Phoksumdo Lake. We can explore Ringmo village before heading to the spectacular Thasung Choeling Gompa (monastery), a 900-year-old Bon monastery. We reach the Gompa following a lovely trail along the forested eastern shores of the lake. Phoksundo Lake is regarded as sacred by Buddhists and followers of Bonpo religion, who believe that the lake contains an underwater palace and a tantric mandala of spirits. The location and ambience of the gompa are sublime. The lamas at Thasung Choeling are very appreciative of the (very few) visitors who show interest in their culture and wisdom.

A walk along the lakeside trail (sometimes known as the ‘devils path’ based on the mythology of the lake) and up to a spectacular viewpoint is a must (7.6 km). We ascend along this dramatic, precipitous (and slightly exposed) trail high above the lake, the scene of the famous yak scene in the movie ‘Himalaya’. The mountain and lake views are wonderful and we can make many stops to look around, not wanting to take our eyes off the trail while walking!

Half an hour later, we descend back down to the lake, cross a small stream which passes through a lightly wooded valley and then climb steeply, much higher this time and along a trail of loose scree and slippery sand. We eventually reach a crest at 3920m, worth a long rest and many photos. Ringmo La is a narrow pass at 4090 meters, another half an hour of climbing above us. We continue along this spectacular trail, staying high, as the lake opens up in different aspects in front of us, often with Himalayan griffins and lammergeiers soaring high above us and snow leopard tracks and skat are often found on the path if we go before yak or mule trains pass.

We return to Ringmo for another night with our hosts at the little tea house.

Accommodation: Local Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Heading back to Ringmo along the lake © Mads Mathiasen

Today we bid Ringmo and the Phoksundo lake farewell and leave the lake basin, climbing over the southern ridge, with amazing views south and southwest of the mountains and the way we came up to Ringmo. We then traverse on a spectacular (but at times precipitous) trail to the summer yak pastures of Yak Kharka, where we will have lunch.

We descend along the Meduwa Khola on a great trail that provides spectacular views to the snow-capped peaks of Kanjirowa Himal and the Jharana Waterfall. We pass through the traditional villages of Meduwa and Rike, before a short stretch of exposed trail at the end of the day.

We stay at the Trekkers Inn near the big school and monastery in Tapriza. If the teachers and head are available, they may be able to explain more about the school and show the school temple murals that explain the stories, legends and developments of the area.

Walking Time: Approx. 7–8 hours

Accommodation: Local Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Bridge below our tea house at Tapriza © Mads Mathiasen

Today we continue the descent, now back on known ground. We will descend along the Suligad once more and marvel at the dancing waters of the gorge. We pass through the villages of Rechi and Chhepka again and, once out of the forest, we will pass other spectacular winter villages. These are homes for the seasonally Nomadic people from Ringmo and Rike and the winter villages now make so much sense after seeing the summer village up high in the wild landscape of the upper valley.
We will descend to the Hindu village of Kageni – a village of water driven mills – and here we will spend our final night on the trail in a lovely little tea house.

Walking Time: 6–7 hours

Accommodation: Local Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Beautiful Mani stone © Mads Mathiasen

After breakfast, our last trek day will see us descend back to the National Park entrance and the confluence of the Suligad and Thulo Bheri Rivers. Returning to the only roads in Dolpo, we will see motorised vehicles for the first time in almost 2 weeks. A short walk along this road will then lead to the start of the ascent to Juphal village and airstrip, an ascent best done before midday heat. Our destination is a local tea house where we enjoy our final lunch on trek and an afternoon rest. Tonight we will party with our crew and thank them for their great support.

Walking Time: Approx. 5–6 hours

Accommodation: Local Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Nothing but! © Mads Mathiasen

In the early morning, we will fly from Juphal to Nepalgunj and onwards to Kathmandu, where we will be transferred to our hotel. The afternoon is free to enjoy some sightseeing, shopping or rest in the hotel.

Juphal airport © Nick McIntosh