Nar, Phu and Tilicho Lake
This is a magnificent trek taking in two different river valleys, encircling the Annapurna Massif and visiting the highest lake in the world, Tilicho Lake. You will experience the culture of Bhuddhist and Hindu villages as you pass through the magnificent landscape of the incredible Himalayas.
The Nar Phu valleys, regions of ethnically-Tibetan inhabitants, grace us with similarly towering snow-peaks and unique culture. The trek up to Nar and Phu combines high peaks and passes, glaciers, remote villages, narrow canyons, lovely forests, amazing rock formations, yaks, gompas and unique Himalayan cultures. Two long days of walking from the border of Tibet, this region was frst explored by Tilman in the 1950s. Closed to trekkers until late 2002, very few westerners have explored these virtually untouched villages or climbed the many 7000m peaks surrounding it. Along with spending plenty of time at these colorful and timeless villages, we explore the high alpine valleys above Phu (including Himlung Base Camp for those who want to), and then from Nar cross the Kang La to Ngawal on the upper Pisang route leading back into the Annapurna circuit.
- Starts In: Kathmandu
- Ends In: Kathmandu
- Duration: 12 Days
- Difficulty Grade: Strenuous
Highlights
- Do it all: get off the beaten path, trek the classic Annapurna Circuit and visit a high altitude lake
- Lush jungle trails to high Tibetan Plateau terrain
- Unique culture not found anywhere else
- Stunning villages of Nar and Phu
Itinerary
Day 01: Drive from Kathmandu to Koto Upper [2600m]
We will leave Kathmandu early in the morning in a comfortable air-conditioned jeep that takes us to the town of Besisahar, which marks the start of the Annapurna Circuit trek. Here you will all meet, have some lunch and have the opportunity to get some fresh fruit and other snacks for the long drive. We will then continue the journey all together, in a sturdy 4WD and a very skilled driver will take us to Koto from where we will start your trek the following day. If you expect a metaled road, don’t be fooled. Driving on this trail is a real adventure as it takes us along the old Annapurna Circuit trek through amazing gorges and meanders past (or even through) stunning waterfalls. We arrive in Koto just before nightfall and enjoy a good meal in a comfortable lodge.
Driving time: Approx. 12 hours
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Lunch, Dinner
Day 02: Trek from Koto Upper to Meta [3560m]
Today we head out early, as we have a long day ahead of us. Just past the checkpost, we cross the river leading to the Nar Phu valleys and a new world will open in front of us. Coming from the relatively well-developed villages of the Annapurna Circuit, we can truly feel that this valley has not been as frequently visited.
The route takes us through some beautiful woods and past several small shelters (caves) and a pilgrims’ ‘Dharmasala’. As we emerge out of a narrow canyon, the trail actually passes under a wide waterfall just before the Dharmasala, from which point the woods become thinner and the vistas wider. The last stretch into Meta takes us up a steep hill from where we get amazing views of some of the giant snowy peaks in the area. Meta lies on a big open plain and consists of a few lodges, which are simple but clean and offer you a good hearty meal.
Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 03: Trek from Meta to Phu [4080m]
Trekking out of Meta, we start to see some of the unique, colorful Chortens Nar and Phu are famous for. The trail meanders along the ridge with a good view of the magnificent Nar Phedi monastery, where we will stay in a few days’ time. After another 1 ½ hours hiking through scenic canyonlands and gorges, we reach the “leaning tower of Pisa” monolith, which guards the steep trail up to Phu. From here we get our first view of the three villages as well as the old “Dzong” and the remains of two forts, all now in ruins, but impressively situated atop the flatlands before the village. Just before we cross the bridge into Phu, a line of wonderful Chortens color the landscape and lead into this village, which was built reminds of an amphitheater. Here we truly step back in time!
Once we have settled down in a comfortable lodge, had a warm drink and stretched our tired bones, we go for a gentle and short walk up to the famous Tashi Lhakhang Gompa. Here we can pay our respects to Lama Karma Sonam Rimpoche, a “trulku”, who came to Nepal with HH the Dalai Lama back in 1959.
Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 04: Exploring Phu
Due to the relatively high altitude, we will spend a day in Phu, where we can rest, explore the tiny alleyways and get to know the life in Phu, or do a longer hike up to Himlung Himal base camp. Phu itself is an incredibly interesting village, and a day is well spent sitting with the villagers as they spin their yak and sheep wool and chat, pound mustard seeds into a paste for oil, or involve themselves in the countless activities that take up a day in Tibetan villages. For photographers, the light is spectacular, and the skies a deep blue, and we may even see some blue sheep on the surrounding hillsides.
Those with lots of energy can go for a hike through a a gorgeous glacial valley leading to Himlung Himal base camp, a 7,125m peak recently opened for climbing. On the trail up you will see endless herds of blue sheep and it is incredible to watch them skillfully clambering up the steep cliffs of the surrounding hills.
If we are lucky, we get to meet an expedition at base camp and enjoy a cup of tea with them. The return trip takes about four to five hours and once you get back to Phu, you will certainly agree that this is an acclimatisation day well spent! Others, who don’t feel like walking so far can explore the surrounding area of Phu and walk west up past the village towards the Chortens on the hillside. This spot provides some incredible vistas and views down over the village and the surrounding fields, forts, valleys and peaks. You will truly be enchanted by this area!
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 05: Trek from Phu to Nar Phedi [3090m]
Today starts with a descent as we retrace our steps back towards Meta. Just before we reach the village, we take a right towards the monastery of Nar Phedi. Make sure you have your cameras handy when we cross a bridge over a deep, contoured and narrow gorge. It is worthwhile to spend some time on the bridge to take pictures and observe the raging river underneath.
As Nar Phedi only consists of the monastery, this will be our accommodation for the night. The rooms are neat and clean and the nuns of the monastery are extremely welcoming. We can join them in the kitchen, have a chat to find out more about their lives in this remote valley and watch them prepare our dinner on a modest fireplace. At 5pm they usually do a ‘Puja’ (Tibetan blessing) and they are very happy for us to come and join them. There is also a small donation box in the monastery where you can leave a contribution for the maintenance of this beautiful and friendly place.
Walking time: Approx. 4-5 hours
Accommodation: Monastery Guesthouse
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 06: Trek from Nar Phedi to Nar [4150m]
Today is a very gentle day. We climb out of Nar Phedi and follow a windy path up a hill that leads us to Nar. We reach the Nar gate at the top and pass by yet another line of wonderfully painted, bamboo-topped Chortens marking our way into the ancient village. We arrive early, so will have some lunch in the sun before doing some exploring around the village and surrounding areas.
Even though Nar is not far from the main Annapurna trail, it feels centuries away. It is rarely visited by trekkers and is about as picturesque as they come. Nar is bit more social and lively than Phu, and during the day you may find the village ‘square’ teeming with chatting women with their back-strap looms weaving wool fabric for rugs and blankets. Each family in Nar seems to have at least one son or daughter in a gompa, and many live at home or visit frequently, so there is the resonating sound of cymbals, chanting and drums echoing throughout the village.
With a few new teahouses built on the outskirts of Nar, we will stay in a comfortable lodge with an extensive menu. Good and plenty of food is particularly important tonight as we have a long day ahead of us tomorrow.
Walking time: Approx 3-4 hours
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 07: Trek from Nar to Ngawal [3675m] via the Kang La Pass [5,240m]
We get up before sunrise, put on our headtorches and head out through the still sleeping village towards the Kang La pass that will take us back to the popular Annapurna Circuit. It is not a difficult pass, however, it can be a long day as we will certainly start to feel the altitude here. Once on top of the pass you will have passed the 5,000m-mark and can enjoy an amazing view over Annapurna II, Gangapurna, Tilicho Peak. The trail down starts off pretty steep but if you enjoy scree running you will certainly have a lot of fun on the descent! After resting our sore knees and shaky legs, we lunch on a plateau overlooking the peak, and then continue to contour to the left towards Ngawal. Ngawal, on the upper Pisang route of the Annapurna Circuit is certainly very different from the ancient villages we visited over the past few days and we are stepping forward in time again. The lodges are big, the menus much more comprehensive and there will be wifi and phone signals in most of the lodges.
Walking time: Approx. 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 08: Trek from Ngawal to Khangsar [3700m]
Descending past Manang’s airstrip at Hongde, we come to a level area from where the north-east face of Annapurna III rises majestically above us. From the wide plains of the Sabje Khola Valley, Annapurna IV [7525m] also becomes visible. Just beyond this point we cross the considerably reduced flow of the Marsyangdi Khola via a wooden bridge to the tiny village of Mungji. Cultivated fields appear on both sides of the path and off to the right, below a craggy mountain, we can see the village of Bryaga with its splendid monastery, it is well worth a visit and there is plenty of time for this today. Large chortens and mani walls abound and the tall peaks of the Himalaya spread out before us – Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Gangapurna [7455m] and, to the rear, Tilicho Peak [7134m]. After a short steep climb we reach Manang which is a surprisingly large village for this remote mountain region.
After lunch, at Manang we continue our on the trail bound for the stunning Tilicho Lake. From Manang we head out through the western gates and then follow the path down to the river. After crossing the Khangsar Khola on the bridge below Khangsar we ascend the slope to the village, a village still in the old Tibetan style and which is also known as the ‘last village of Nepal’.
Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 09: Trek from Khangsar to Tilicho Base Camp [4200m]
This morning we continue on from Khangsar on a large, recently built path past a Gompa (monastery) and on up towards a high ridge. We reach an intersection of the new trail and the old trail – and we take the new trail and climb to a high crest before descending on switch backs carved out through the scree slopes. We reach a side valley and, crossing the little stream at the bottom, we come to a building known as Tilicho Base Camp.
Walking time: Approx 5-6 hours
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 10: Visit Tilicho Lake and return down to Khangsar
We get an early start this morning as we have a great but long day hike ahead of us. It is about 3-4 hours to the Tilicho Lake, a stunning body of bright turquoise water, claimed to be the highest lake in the world. We are hiking through the high alpine landscape, with plenty of bare rock and snow and it is so incredible to come apon the vibrant colour of the lake in this less than colourful landscape! How long we spend at the lake is determined by how long it took us to walk there and our energy levels; we don’t want to leave it too late to return to Khangsar.
Walking time: Approx. 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 11: Drive from Khangsar to Besisahar
This morning we load up into into the 4WD and embark on the driving adventure back to civilization. Do note that driving times on these roads vary wildly, depending on the road conditions.
In Besisahar we will stay in a comfortable hotel, where only recently the Prince of Denmark resided during his visit to Nepal.
Driving time: Approx. 7-8 hours
Accommodation: Gateway Resort
Meals included:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Day 12: Drive from Besisahar to Kathmandu
We start early today to drive back to Kathmandu arriving early-afternoon.
Drive time: Approx 6 hours
Meals included: Breakfast
Gallery
Included In Price
- Tea house accommodation while on trek
- Meals as per the itinerary (all meals on trek, with filtered drinking water)
- Transportation as per the detailed itinerary (includes overland journey to/from trek)
- Your trekking guide, sherpas and porters, with all their transport, equipment, insurance, meals and accommodation
- A first aid kit with basic supplies appropriate for the group size and trek route – if you require or are taking specific medications it is critical that you discuss this with us prior to your trip departure
- Trekking permits and registration fee
Please note: Your guide will provide filtered water for you to drink which is preferable environmentally to buying mineral water since the bottles are not recycled. We recommend that you take two x 1-liter water bottles which can take boiling water (one is nice to have at your toes on a cold night, while the other cools down for the morning!)
Note: The local tea houses are basic but clean and they do not often have attached bathrooms or hot showers. The price is based on twin shares and does not include any extra charge that lodge owners may levy for single rooms, attached bathrooms, or hot showers (if these facilities are available) or for battery charging. We can’t know in advance what they may charge for such things in the different lodges along the way, so we prefer to leave this cost out, rather than pass along an estimated charge to you. The meal inclusions on the trek are breakfast (one set breakfast and a tea or coffee), lunch (one main meal and a tea or coffee), and dinner (soup, main and dessert with a tea or coffee).
Not Included In Price
- Services and activities not mentioned in the detailed itinerary
- Any gear or equipment that you may need to rent/buy – please ask us if you would like any advice
- International flights to and from Kathmandu, Nepal visa fees and international airport taxes
- Any excess baggage charges
- Comprehensive travel insurance that includes trip cancellation and rescue evacuation should this be required for any reason (we require this as the minimum insurance cover)
- Rescue/evacuation costs (to be covered by your insurance)
- Additional nights, single supplement, optional trips and sightseeing tours outside the details above
- Personal expenses (eg mineral water/soft drinks/bar bills, entrance/photography fees at monasteries, laundry, telephone calls, postage, donations, extra snacks, etc)
- Any extra charge that tea house owners may levy for single rooms, attached bathrooms, or hot showers (if these facilities are available) and charging of batteries
- Tips for your trekking crew, city guide, drivers, hotels, restaurants, etc
- Costs incurred due to changes in programs and reservations due to unforeseen events (eg landslides, strikes, fuel shortages, etc)
