From Phakding, we cross and re-cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set-up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment.

You then ascend steeply to Namche on steps, which will be the first big climb of the trek. Just take it easy and enjoy the views along the way as there is plenty of time to get to our destination. Along the way, if the weather is clear, you can catch your first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance.

Namche is the main trading village in the Khumbu and has a busy Saturday market — a meeting place for the Hindu traders from the lowlands and the Tibetan yak caravans that have crossed the glaciated Nangpa La. On any day of the week, this is a big, bustling trading town, packed with locals and trekkers alike!

Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Bridge across the Dudh Kosi © Don Bethune

Namche is tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops, and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent outlook. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day, acclimatizing to the new altitude before heading further up into the mountains.

There are a number of great acclimatization day hikes to choose from:

Visit Everest View Hotel (2-3 hours): A one-hour walk up to the Everest View Hotel above Namche for the sunset view of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse, and Everest. There are also good views from the National Park Centre and Museum just above the town. If you’re an early bird, a great place to go for sunrise and breakfast.

Visit Khumjung and Khunde (3-4 hours): If you continue past Everest View Hotel, you descend into the village of Khumjung where you can visit the Khunde Hospital which was set up by Sir Edmund Hillary and one of the Hillary schools at Khumjung.

Day hike to Thame (6-7 hours): If you’re fast on the trail, can also be combined with Thame (below). Thame is a beautiful old village with snaking rock walls, yak paddocks, and gorgeous, traditional slate-roofed Sherpa houses. Thame Gompa, perched up to the north of the village, is one of the oldest in the Khumbu, so it’s well worthwhile to take the afternoon to climb to the Gompa and wander around this old, walled village. In Thame, we can also see the Advanced Mountaineering Training School and its hydropower station.

Rest for the day and explore Namche: Depending on energy levels, you can of course use this day to rest and just enjoy being in Namche.

Walking time: Approx. 1-5 hours (depending on which day hike you choose)

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

View of Ama Dablam from Khumjung © Luke Everson

Today is a spectacular day in terms of scenery as we follow the main trail north out of Namche. A short climb to a crest reveals a wonderful view towards Everest and Lhotse.

We follow this main trail for a while longer, passing many traders selling Tibetan handicrafts, to a crossroads high above the Dudh Kosi. The trail to Everest drops down the hill but we turn off here and climb to cross the Mon La (‘La’ means pass) before reaching Phortse Tenga.

From Phortse Tenga, the trail climbs steeply to Dole, through rhododendron and birch forest festooned with hanging mosses and lichens.

Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Everest and Lhotse View © Clare Mathiasen

From Dole we climb steadily along the side of the valley, where the rhododendron forests give way to scrub juniper as the altitude increases. The trail passes many summer settlements [yersa], which are used when yaks are taken to these pastures to graze in the summer months. Ahead of us are excellent views of Cho Oyu, while back down the valley are the peaks of Kantega and Thamserku. This is a short day and we will arrive at Machermo in time for lunch.

Walking time: Approx. 4-5 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Dole © Robin Boustead

We are now approaching 4500m, so we will stay at Machermo for an extra day to acclimatise. There are plenty of possibilities for exploration around the Merchermo and just above the village there is an excellent view encompassing Cho Oyu [8210m] and the mountains which flank the Ngozumpa Glacier.

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trekker taking a rest Machermo © Alex Treadway

Rested, we head for the lakes at Gokyo. We follow a very scenic path to Pangka and then descend slightly, following one of the melt-water rivers which flow down the west side of the Ngozumpa Glacier. We climb a steep rocky incline into the valley by the side of the glacier, passing the first of the holy lakes. We soon arrive at the second of the lakes, crossing the path which heads across the glacier to Cho La – the route to Lobuche and the main Everest trail.

The third lake is known as Dudh Pokhari and on its eastern shore is the settlement of Gokyo. Walking by the side of the lake, the scenery is magnificent with the summits of Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang reflected in its emerald green waters.

Walking time: Approx. 5-6 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Gokyo Lake © Alex Treadway

Today can be used as a rest day, or we can get out and explore Gokyo. If we feel good, then head out up Gokyo Ri, 5400m. This peak offer yet more amazing views, in fact considered one of the best for the four highest mountains in the area; Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. It’s also a great vantage point for all-around spectacular views of the lakes, the glacial moraine and the Khumbu ice fall. It is fantastic in the morning, the middle of the day or for sunset, but don’t forget to bring a torch if you opt for a ‘sunset on Everest’ views, which is better than the sunrise. If the peak is not your thing for today, then there’s a super nice 3-4 hour round trip to the fifth lake for a good view of Mt Everest from an alternate perspective.

Walking time: Approx. 2 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Gokyo Ri View © Alex Treadway

Back on the trails again, we have another stunning but long day, so it’s good to get out early. Our trail heads out around the side of the lake, then switch backs up a ridge until we reach an often frozen stream. Here we begin the steep ascent to the Renjo La, finally reaching the famous pass after skirting a dramatic rock face before the top. The mornings climb will take us about 4 hours and we stop to enjoy our picnic lunch and yet more ridiculously stunning views.

After the pass we have a steep descent for an hour or so to a lake where the terrain levels out for a bit in yak kharkas. We pass the twin Renjo Lakes and then we have a last steep decent into the Thame Valley. We stay the night in the small hamlet of Lungden, again with spectacular views and located in one of the lesser visited areas of the Khumbu region, allowing us to experience more closely the traditional life of Sherpa families.

Walking time: Approx. 7-8 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Renjo La looking back to Gokyo © Robin Boustead

Today our trail follows the Bhote Koshi river for about 3-4 hours down into Thame. Our walk will feel like a step back in time as we pass by many old, walled Sherpa villages, seasonal settlements of the Thame and Thamo villagers. We will probably also share the trail with Tibetan yak caravans, Khampas, trading en route to and from Namche and Tibet with the villagers. Thame is a beautiful old village with snaking rock walls, yak paddocks and the gorgeous, traditional slate-roofed Sherpa houses. Thame Gompa, perched up to the north of the village, is one of the oldest in the Khumbu, so it’s well worth while to take the afternoon to climb to the Gompa and wander around this old, walled village. In Thame we can also see the Advanced Mountaineering Training School and their hydro power station.

Walking time: Approx. 3-4 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

View of the Bhote Kosi valley © Robin Boustead

Today we head back down the trail into familiar Namche, perhaps seeing some of our Tibetan friends from the trail at the local market and coming back to the amazing luxuries of this bustling, mountain bazaar.

On our way down, we have the option for a side-trip to Lawudo Gompa (3790m). Nestled in the mountainside above Thamo and Mende villages and affiliated with the famous Kopan Monastery in Kathmandu, this Gompa was built at the site where Guru Rimpoche meditated in a small cave en route to Tibet. The cave has been turned into a tiny cave chapel, and there is a fascinating library which we may be permitted to see. It’s a beautiful and serene place, with Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak from which the Khumbu region takes its name, soaring overhead and the Gompa prayer flags framing the perfect Himalayan foreground.

Walking time: Approx. 4-5 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Classic view of Namche © Luke Everson

Our final day’s trekking follows the Dudh Kosi back down to Lukla. This last evening in the mountains is the ideal opportunity for a farewell party with the sherpa guides and porters, where we can sample some chang, try Sherpa dancing and look back on a memorable trekking experience.

Walking time: Approx. 6-7 hours

Accommodation: Tea House
Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Harvest time © Per Daugaard

After an early breakfast, you head to the airstrip with your guide for the return flight to Kathmandu. Flights out of Lukla usually depart early in the morning so you should arrive in Kathmandu with plenty of time for further sightseeing, shopping, getting a massage, or taking in the life of town from a street side cafe.

Upon arrival at the airport, you’ll be transferred to your hotel in Kathmandu to check in and then the rest of the day is free.

Accommodation: None
Meals included: Breakfast

Lukla Airport © Don Bethune